Real Quality Defined
If you have not majored in Naval Architecture, Chemistry and
Engineering or extensively studied boat building materials and
construction, it is very difficult to identify the differences between
so-called Quality boats, Quality boats and Real Quality boats. The
differences exist, however, and they are usually right in front of your
eyes. You just need to know what to look for.
In 2001 we decided to carry a new line of sailing/cruising yachts
called the Vilm. The Vilm is built by a very experienced boat builder
in Germany, Bootsbau Ruegen, so of course we expected it to be a very
high quality vessel. Our expectations were not only met, they were FAR
exceeded. Even today, we are still discovering prime examples of the
builder's attention to detail and commitment to quality. Their standard
for excellence has inspired us to share with you what Real Quality is
and how to identify it when you are comparison-shopping.
Real Quality in Underwater
Design and Construction
Hull Shape
It is often disputed whether a full keel or a fin keel is better for a
boat's performance. The truth is both and neither. The modified fin
keel with a skeg or semi-skeg supported rudder is, in fact, the
optimal design. It offers less wetted surface and hence less drag
resulting in increased speed, better pointing to windward (less time to
go a distance), and better all around performance. Additionally, a fin
keel allows the builder and designer to concentrate the ballast deeper
down without increasing the draft. They are also able to incorporate
profiles that give the boat more lift - higher pointing. The
midships location of the ballast reduces pitching, and the lower center
of gravity provides for less heeling and greater comfort.
The variety of keel and rudder shapes causes significant differences in
performance, sea kindliness, and seaworthiness - even among boats with
similar underwater design. The talent and experience of naval
architects truly come into play here. Do your homework, research the
designs and the designers and the ultimate results in the water.
Thru Hulls and Sea Cocks
High quality bronze thru hulls and seacocks are a must. Brass or other
alloys are susceptible to corrosion and electrolysis. Brass is
considerably less expensive but loses its zinc content in salt water
and becomes very brittle. Don't play around here and don't settle for
less than the best. A failing thru hull or seacock will
quickly sink your boat. Watch out for plastic thru hulls; the sun's UV
rays deteriorate them quickly, and they simply do not belong on a Real
Quality boat.
However, please note that there are a wide variety of bronze seacocks,
and the
best ones cost twice or three times as much as what a builder might pay
for
lower end products.
Keel/Ballast
The best keel is one that is made of lead. It is much denser and
heavier than steel and does not corrode. Additionally, with a lead
ballast, the draft of the vessel can be reduced without sacrificing
stability.
The keel bolts should be made of very high-grade stainless steel (i.e.
316 A5), thick in diameter, and plentiful in quantity. To determine
which boat has a better-fastened and therefore stronger keel, compare
the bolt diameter and quantity of bolts used on boats of equal size.
Real Quality in Hull and
Deck Construction
Hull Construction
Buyer beware! There is a considerable difference between "hand laid"
and "100% hand laid". All major production boat builders talk about
"hand-laid fiberglass". However, they actually use chopper guns to
replace the traditional fiberglass mats with "chopped strand" - two
inch long glass fibers - wetted with resin by the chopper gun and
sprayed into the mold. Only the woven rovings are rolled or "laid in"
by hand.
The problem with the chopper gun method is that it produces a hull that
lacks the strength to withstand rough weather conditions, submerged
logs, reefs and rocks. A 100% hand-laid hull of the same thickness as a
chopper gun hull has three times more impact strength!
Look for isophtalic acid resin, or at least vinylester resin.
Orthophtalic is the least desirable and the most likely to lead to
osmosis and blisters because it absorbs more moisture.
As in the composition of resin, the best gelcoat is isophtalic because
it offers high resistance to penetrating water molecules and much
longer gloss retention. It is also much easier to polish.
Unfortunately, however, it is rarely used because it is expensive and
more difficult to work with.
Even if the best resins and gelcoats are used, you are well advised to
have the under water body of your boat coated with at least five coats
of epoxy to further protect your hull's laminate from moisture
penetration. The epoxy coating also provides a better bond for the
antifouling paint. Insist that a high quality, ablative antifouling,
such as Interlux CSC, be used.
Decks
Teak decks are beautiful as long as they are relatively new and well
maintained. Additionally, they provide the best grip in foul weather.
They also, however, are expensive and terribly expensive when they have
to be replaced. They do well in colder climates such as Europe, the
Northwest and Maine, but in warmer areas the sun is a teak deck's worst
enemy - not to mention how hot the deck can get. Even well laid teak
decks will flex, expand and contract. Sooner or later water will find
its way under the teak and into the core of the underlying fiberglass
deck - a very expensive problem to correct.
A more cost effective alternative to the pricey teak decks is
fiberglass decks. They are strong, durable and water tight. (They're
also much kinder to the bare foot.) Fiberglass decks can be made in
such a way that they are quite attractive - note the deck of the Vilm
116.
Obviously, there are significant differences in the thickness,
stiffness, finish and refinement of decks between production boats and
Real Quality boats. Quite often you can see and "feel" the difference
just by walking on them.
Because of the deck's exposure to sun, salt and foot traffic, insist on
the very best gelcoat and resin available - isophtalic acid gelcoat and
resin.
Hull to Deck Connection
The deck of a Real Quality boat will be laminated to the hull from the
inside to create a solid and strong connection that will never leak -
providing, of course, that it was correctly laminated. Lesser quality
vessels will have deck and hull bonded or glued together; even worse,
some are just riveted or bolted together. Under the twisting motion of
the hull under sail, this type of hull-deck connection will separate
over time and sooner or later become a leaking nightmare.
A good way to find whether the hull of a certain boat has been designed
for
cheaper production or top quality is to look whether the rub rail is
molded into
the hull, or just bolted to the outside of the hull, and often made out
of wood,
which will deteriorate soon.
Real Quality in Bulkheads,
Stringers and Crossmembers
Bulkhead Attachment
The most significant
determining factor in the quality
of a bulkhead lies in how it is attached to the hull. Real
quality
dictates that the bulkhead be separated approximately 1/2 inch from the
inside
of the hull with foam strips, and then laminated to the hull on both
sides using
three to four overlapping layers of laminate. Also make sure the layers
of
laminate are properly rounded between the bulkhead and the hull sides,
so that
the tremendous strength of the glass fibers is maximized. Glass fibers
lose a
lot of their strength when pushed into sharp 90-degree corners.
Unfortunately, sliding the
bulkheads into grooves and
securing them in place with a sealant, a practice once common primarily
with
mass production boats can now also be found in "quality" boats well
over $300,000 in price. If bulkheads are not laminated to the hull, the
hull
will flex and the boat will wear severely if it is sailed in rough
water. Your
best bet is simply to eliminate from from your list any boat whose
bulkheads are
not laminated to the hull. In fact, bulkheads should not only be
laminated to
the hull, but also to the deck, like on the Vilm.
Bulkhead Composition
The bulkhead should be made
of quality laminated wood
at least 3/4 inch thick. High tech composites are good as well, but
rarely used
in cruising yachts. Be aware that composites in boats under one million
dollars
are usually the cheap stuff and are only used because they do cost less
than
wood-laminated bulkheads.
Stringers and
Cross members
Stringers and cross members
are also critically
important in quality fiberglass boats. They are literally the backbone
of the
hull and determine how strong and rigid a hull is. Here we simply must
use the
Vilm as the perfect yardstick for how it should be done - in size,
dimension and
the number of stringers and cross members. Just come, have a thorough
look and
compare it with boats you are considering.
Chain Plates
Heavy duty, laminated ring
anchors reaching from below
the deck way down towards the keel section are vital for distributing
the stress
from the rig to hull and keel. This feature, however, is found on very
few
boats. Chain plates merely attached to bulkheads, or semi-structural
parts of
the boat will flex and cause leaks. Even worse, if the chain plates
fail, they
will cause de-masting while under sail. See, for example, Coast
Guard Recall #0135T1999PH420 (HINs: HUN42100F899 - HUN42120A999)
Real Quality in the Mast -
Standing and Running Rigging
Mast, boom, standing and running rigging, blocks, winches, furling
reefing system, single or double spreaders, forward and rear lower
shrouds and turn buckles are all items that you also need to compare
thoroughly because boat builders can (and do) save several thousand
dollars cutting
corners on these items alone.
Real Quality in Sails
There are lots of sail manufacturers but only a few Real Quality
producers. For Genoa and Main sail alone a builder can save up to two
thousand dollars, but you find out too late that you got cheap, mass
produced sails.
Real Quality in the Drive
train and Propulsion System
Engine Noise
Engine noise is an annoying fact of life for most power driven vessels,
and it's even worse for sailing yachts and motor sailers. Tests show
that sailing yachts reach noise levels as high as 100 decibels and
above - not only annoying but destructive to our hearing in the long
run. Most Quality built motor sailers and trawlers produce 80 decibels
at cruising speed. (At 80 decibels, one can converse without
significantly
raised voices, but it is an annoying level and you are definitely
relieved when you reach your destination and can shut the engine off.)
Sailing yachts, however, are usually even noisier with 85 to over 100
dB. The Vilm 116 is an exception here.
She produces only about 60 decibels in the fore cabin, 63 in the salon
and 65 dB in the cockpit at a cruising speed of 7.5 knots under engine
because of the extraordinary measures taken in engine room insulation.
(65 dB is the level of a normal conversation.)
Please note that OSHA deems any environment with a noise level above 85
dB
unacceptable for people over an eight hour period, and any sound louder
than 90
dB is hazardous to your health.
Prop Shaft
Real Quality is found here in the way in which the prop shaft is
supported. Look for a hull designed such that there is a formed-in area
as part of the hull that will support the end of the prop shaft rather
than having the shaft supported by a strut. A strut is quite vulnerable
to debris or a fouled line.
In addition, the material out of which the shaft is made and the
diameter of the shaft are very important. The shaft should be made of
Aquamet grade 17 or better - Aquamet 19, and the minimum shaft diameter
for a 40-60 hp engine should be 11/4 inches. (The Vilm 116 prop shaft
is 1 3/8 inches in diameter.) Using a lesser grade prop shaft or a
smaller diameter will result in both the prop shaft and the cutlass
bearing wearing out prematurely. Also, under a heavy load the shaft
twists and flexes under the torsion load thus leading to an earlier
demise.
Propeller
Pay close attention to the actual prop. Two blade props are cheap and a
very poor choice for cruising yachts. They cause the vessel to vibrate
every time one of the two blades rotates through the upper 180 degrees
of their 360-degree turn pushing water against the hull. A two-blade
prop also stresses the cutlass bearing and stuffing box.
A better choice is the three-blade prop. Obviously then, the best is a
four blade prop. Because three and four blade props can cause
considerable resistance, a folding version is usually worth the extra
money - provided it is well engineered. Be aware, however, that there
are a variety of folding props on the market that require frequent
maintenance and greasing.
Volvo Penta makes an excellent, well engineered three blade folding
prop and has recently announced the introduction of a four blade
folding prop to be released later in 2003.
Aqua Drive
Another very important item is the Swedish made
Aqua Drive. This expensive item is rarely found in sailing yachts even
though it greatly enhances the quality of the ride. The Aqua Drive
isolates the thrust of the prop and shaft completely from the engine
thus allowing the use of soft engine mounts. The ultimate result is
therefore less vibration and a quieter ride. In addition, you will
never have an alignment problem with this device installed.
Stuffing Box
Look for a drip free stuffing box and a completely dry bilge. Any water
in the bilge will lead to mildew and corrosion. Even worse, the engine
hates water and will rust; the electrical connections and systems are
even more sensitive.
Real Quality in
Accessibility
For your sake and that of your Service Technician (and your pocket
book), make sure easy access is one of the boats quality features. The
engine, transmission, batteries, filters, pumps, stuffing box, exhaust,
wiring, etc. should all be very easily accessed for routine maintenance
and repair or replacement. Not only should you be able to get to all
sides of the engine, you should even be able to remove the engine, if
necessary, without having to disassemble parts of the boat.
And don't forget Murphy's Law - If a system is easily accessible, it
will work just fine - if it is not easily accessible, it will surely
fail.
Real Quality in the
Pulpit, Stanchions, Fittings, etc.
Stainless Steel
The very best in stainless steel is 316-A5, highly polished. Second
best is 316, electro polished. At a minimum you should insist on 316
stainless steel and steer away from the 304 - it severely corrodes when
exposed to seawater. Even 316 stainless stains badly and thus requires
frequent polishing. Since there is a lot of stainless steel on most
boats - deck fittings, stanchions, pulpits, bow fittings, handrails,
turnbuckles, davits, etc. - you could spend more time cleaning and
polishing than sailing if you decide to forego the 316-A5, highly
polished or the 316, electro polished at the very least. Most
definitely find out what the chainplates are made of. Very often it is
only 304 stainless. Few builders, in fact, use the preferred grades at
all, putting cost before
quality once
again.
Also what diameter piping
has been used for bow and aft
pulpit, one inch as in most cases or 1 1/4 inch as on the Vilm - it is
quite a
difference in strength and price. The way the stanchions are fastened
to the
hull is another important check point. Again, compare with the Vilm.
Another point is to look at
the navigation lights.
There are boats costing close to a half million dollars with a single
red/green
combination bow light mounted to a flimsy bracket. Again, compare with
the Vilm.
Also compare the dimensions
of bow filttings, the
tickness of the material used, and how it is welded. Use the bow
fitting of the
Vilm as a yardstick. There you'll see once more the difference between
superb
quality and cheap mass-produced merchandise.
Real Quality in the Cockpit
Comfort and Functionality
Real Quality in the cockpit of a cruising yacht is critical to the
enjoyment of sailing. First and foremost, the seats should be
comfortable and the cockpit should be dry, even in rainy weather. There
should be a cockpit table that can be easily removed and securely
stored in a protected storage area. Furthermore, the cockpit area
should not only be functional in the operation of the vessel, it should
also provide additional "living" space in the boat.
Weatherproof
Obviously, most sailing yachts have an open cockpit that exposes
helmsman and crew to spray, wind, rain and sun. This is tolerable for
the younger generations, although somewhat unpleasant and
uncomfortable. For those of us who might be 45 and above, however, a
cockpit that is protected by a solid deckhouse and provides the ability
to sail and operate the boat from within the enclosed cockpit is more
appealing, more practical, and a lot healthier too.
If the boat has a deckhouse or hard dodger, make sure that there are
windshield wipers for rain and spray. Otherwise, you'll have to "stick
your head out" time and again.
Companionways
Companionway boards, sometimes called washboards, are the
"entranceways" that have to be removed before entering the cabin. They
are then typically stored in the cockpit lockers. This can become quite
the task when the waters and wind are kicking up and you need to put
the companionway boards back in place to keep the elements out of the
cabin. Even so, this is what you usually find even on expensive sailing
and cruising yachts; it simply is the cheapest way.
Louvered doors are a better alternative, but they take up additional
space and are not as solid or secure against a forced entry.
The best design and engineering is a one piece, slide down (no storing
away in a locker) companionway door. This is a perfect and secure way
to open and close your companionways in a mere second. And they look
gorgeous too!
Real Quality in the
Interior
Sail Magazine recently wrote, "Judging a boat on the same terms as the
family home may be a big mistake." How true! Still, this is done more
often than not.
The Wood
The interior of a vessel is the simplest place to discern quality. Open
drawers, lockers and cabinet doors. The material should be a quality
wood - mahogany or teak - not plastic. Workmanship should be flawless
even "behind closed doors". The "shine" on the wood should emanate from
perfectly applied multiple layers of varnish. Wood that is merely oiled
attracts and holds dust and darkens with age. In addition, the varnish
should be free of streaks and open pores.
Compare details like the cabinet doors. Signs of Real Quality include
rounded corners; cabinet doors framed with wide, solid wood; cabinet
interiors paneled with wood; quality fittings and hardware. Notice also
the quantity and placement of cabinets and hanging lockers. Check the
number and size of the drawers and their fittings. Drawers with holes
in which you stick your finger to release the snap are cheap to make
but dangerous finger breakers at sea. Sliding doors, again made of
quality wood, that slide in and out of place are preferable to standard
hinged type doors.
Carefully inspect all the "little things" such as knobs, door handles,
opening and closing fittings on cabinets and drawers, faucets and light
fixtures. Take your time. They should not just give the appearance of
quality, but be quality manufactured and installed.
Counter Tops
In an attempt to impress the "wife", Corian and similar substitutes
have become quite popular with many production builders. Don't fall for
it. Corian, etc. make nice counter tops in a house but are completely
impractical on boats. They are very heavy and crack easily when flexed.
Insist on quality marine plywood covered with Formica; it outlasts the
other stuff by a long shot and lightens your overall load as well.
Cabin Sole
Real Quality boat builders make their cabin soles of real wood and
varnish and seal them on the under side as well as on the top side.
They also disclose their Quality in the designer's forethought of what
may be needed, what is most convenient, and what is most practical in
terms of access. Inspect the cabin floor carefully. The floor should
allow easy access to everything that lies below. Most production boats
provide only a few and often ridiculously small floor openings.
Cushions and Mattresses
Don't forget to inspect the Quality of the foam used in the cushions
and mattresses. Look for firm, double density foam. Also, pay attention
to the fabrics used. Designer fabrics look good but lack the durability
of higher quality fabrics that may cost more but are definitely worth
the price in the long run. One more thing, ask if the builder will
allow you to personally select the fabrics for the cushions and
curtains.
Real Quality in the Details
The Tanks
Fuel, water and holding tanks made of high-grade stainless steel (again
316-A5) are much better than any other material. Plastic tanks deform
after a few years and aluminum tanks are susceptible to corrosion both
on the inside and outside. If used as a water tank, aluminum will also
give the water a bad taste. Even worse, if it is used for the holding
tank, the tank will need to be replaced in six to seven years because
the waste has eaten pin holes through the aluminum and is seeping out
into the bilge creating a foul smelling mess.
This leads us to another feature of Real Quality boats - the tanks
should be very accessible for cleaning purposes. Look for large clean
out plates for both the water and the Diesel tanks (extremely
important). The tanks should also be removable. Most boats enclose
their holding tanks in such a way that they have to be literally cut
out when something goes wrong. These details as well are often
overlooked or disregarded by many builders.
Electrical Panels,
Switches, Circuit Breakers and Wiring
Look for wires that are well marked and easily accessed so that they
can be removed or replaced. 12V and 110V panels should also be easy to
access and remove in order to check connections, circuit breaker
switches and LED lights. Insist on a brand name 110V panel with Volt
and Amp meters installed. In addition, all 110V wiring and bonding
cables should be ABYC approved tinned, multi-strand wiring. (Special
note: This is rarely found on European boats because blank copper
wiring is used. Blank copper will corrode in the
US climate, so we ship ABYC wiring to Bootsbau Ruegen for installation
on the
Vilm.)
Bonding System
A Real Quality bonding system starts with a galvanic isolator from a
reputable manufacturer (such as Professional Mariner, Inc.). The
bonding cables must be #8 or #6 and should connect every
thru-hull/seacock, underwater fitting, stuffing box, rudder shaft, prop
shaft (with a graphite brush), and every other underwater bronze or
stainless steel part. And finally, the cables must terminate on a
dedicated large sacrificial anode mounted underwater in such a way that
even you (or a diving buddy) can exchange it.
Steering System
Cables, chains and rudder quadrant are cheap, old technology and prone
to cause problems. Rack and pinion steering, like the British Whitlock
system, is much better. Another good system is hydraulic steering. It
is more expensive, but it is ideal for an autopilot.
For any steering system, insist on an emergency tiller that reaches
into the cockpit so that the helmsman has good visibility when the
tiller is needed.
Bilge Pumps
Standard on most vessels, quality or not, is two bilge pumps - one
electric and one manual. Look for the boats that go above and beyond in
this area. For example, the Vilm has four electric bilge pumps
connected with in-line check valves to a stainless steel
manifold/collector from where water leaves the boat through one thru
hull with a seacock. Of course, it also has a manual pump.
Look at the bilge pumps.
Usually you will find the $25
- $50 variety. A real good bilge pump, like the Jabsco diaphragm pump,
costs
more than $300 a piece. The same is true for automatic bilge pump
switches. The
cheaper ones, which are sensitive to any dirt, etc. in the bilge cost
just a few
dollars, while the more reliable, electronic sensors may cost $100 or
more.
Real Quality in Ground
Tackle
* Ask what anchor swivel and chain/rode come with the boat you are
considering, then go do some more homework. The anchor and chain/rode
are your most important safety devices with literally your boat and
possibly your life hanging on them, we are amazed to still see the old
type anchors and swivels used on even quite expensive boats.
(See our web site, www.inter-yacht.com, for
additional information on Ground Tackle Systems.)
Real Quality in the Design
* The Designer
Last, but absolutely in no way least, is probably the most essential
factor in seeking (and finding) Real Quality when you are shopping for
a boat - the Designer. Do your homework. Research the talent and
experience of the naval architect who designed the boat you are
considering. Find out how many years experience he/she has, with whom
he/she has studied and worked, what other boats he/she has designed,
awards received or problems that arose as a result of their design,
even what his/her peers think of him/her.
Keep in mind that, as in all trades and professions, there are only a
small number of gifted designers who consistently find themselves in
the "Circle of Excellence" and who rise far above the mediocrity of
their peers. In the case of boat design, there are a mere few who seem
to be able to stretch the laws of physics; their boats are faster, they
point higher, they perform better in rough seas - with less heeling and
little or no pounding.
Georg Nissen, designer of the Vilm 101 and the Vilm 116, is one of
these gifted few. He took the best of the older famous yachts and
blended their lines with his own design concepts. In the last 25 plus
years, Mr. Nissen has created and/or was involved in the design of some
of the most beautiful and successful sailing yachts in the world. Sail
the Vilm and feel the difference.